Best Greek Food in Vermont
Papa Nick's, which some call Mama Nick's, remains a Hinesburg cornerstone, a place where our columnist visits often, jokes with the waitress and always sees someone he knows.
By Bill Schubart
Hinesburg Record Columnist
Papa Nick’s on Route 116 is a go-to spot for many locals, including our extended family. Known both for its Greek cuisine and its high-end diner fare, it’s usually bustling with locals either enjoying lunch or supper, or picking up take-out, their renowned pizzas or, in-season, a creemie with appropriate sprinkled toppings.
Nicholas and Vuola Zontanos bought the restaurant in 1990 from Marian Welch, who had bought it in the ‘80s and operated it as the Kali Yuga Kitchen.
Marian and her partner, Marie Copp, moved to Vermont in the ‘50s and established Kali Yuga Farm, raising Jerseys and exotic rare birds. I lived in Lincoln then and often visited Marian to buy peacocks, ducks, geese, silkies, and turkeys. Her barn was a unique experience, as was her house, which she also shared with an African gray parrot who perched on her shoulder and was as conversational as its owner.
In the ‘80s, Marian sold most of her herd and much of her land and a barn; some to Wayne Bissonnette and some to David Zuckerman and Rachel Nevitt. She then bought a small restaurant which she named the Kali Yuga Kitchen. I was told by Jean Kiedaisch, a good friend of Marian and Marie’s, that “Kali Yuga” in Hindu cosmology is the earth’s final stage, in which all is chaos.
Nick and Vuola Zontanos arrived here from Greece’s Peloponnese region in 1966 and both spent 40 years operating restaurants and cooking in them until they acquired Kali Yuga in 1990 and opened Papa Nick’s, named after a chef-uncle.
The restaurant retains both its rich Greek credentials, offering moussaka, a gyro platter, Greek salad, dolmades, souvlaki, spanakopita, tzatziki, and baklava as well as a rich menu of diner comfort-food.
What is perhaps most unique about Papa Nick’s (which our family has called “Mama Nick’s” since Nick died in 2013) is the prevailing sense of comfort and community. As soon as one enters, one is usually greeted by friends or casual acquaintances having a meal. The staff knows most of their customers and it seems like the regular lunch spot for some folks. I often see and greet the folks from Clifford Lumber enjoying lunch.
Nick and Vuola have two daughters, Paula and Dimitra. Paula is often in the restaurant helping out, and when Dimitra visits, she also pitches in. One waitress and I have evolved a dramatic routine. I order sardine creemies with anchovy toppings or clam chowder with a dollop of maple creemie. She then dramatically shows her disgust to the great amusement of adjacent tables.
One night when we were having a small family birthday party, I felt an ice cube land in my collar, and then another hit my dinner plate. I looked to see where they were coming from and my frenemy was tossing them at me from the kitchen. The whole place descended into laughter as our routine expanded. To the relief of Mama Nick, we managed to avoid a full-blown food-fight, smiled at each other and continued our dinner.
Everyone feels at home at Mama Nick’s.